Clear, and have it done professionally so it is not dodgy

Re the asbestos thing (and don't take this as pro advice...cos I aint) but if it looks like, quacks like it then it MIGHT be it. I thought I had asbestos walls (cos everyone said "it might be asbestos"...similar to some kid who may have been Jake Gyllenall saying to Arnie "it might be a toomore"). My walls were not asbestos. However I did find out that you can remove a certain square meterage of asbestos (depending on state boundaries) without have expert (very expensive) assistance (check the state rules). If it "might be" then be careful. As you are tiling over (therefor not cutting, grinding, messing about with?) then stay cool and tile to your tile glue's content!

I have tried all the suggestions Perini - didn't look purple in real life. Tile Boutique - no purple floor tiles at all. All all the lots and lots of other places = no purple floor tiles. Yes I have seen purple glass mosaics almost everywhere but I don't want small mosaics on the floor. Will also cost $55 sqm more to have grouted than a regular size floor tile. Looks like I'll just have to do boring grey as it's the trend but I have at least found one with sparkles if I can't have purple. I'm also amazed at reactions of the tile sales people - questioning, surprise, snobbery and happiness to be trying to look for something that is different. Cant' say I can't find purple, I have but with a 10 to 14 week wait to be ordered from O/S and lots of $$$ but I need to reno the bathroom by then so can't wait. Motto: If you have time and money can do anything.

Hi Chris The cheapest option is Grind & Seal, but we usually recommend Mechanically Polished Concrete for inside of a home. This is by far a better option, if you were to go for a Matte or Satin finish it is less expensive than a higher gloss finish. Mechanically Polished Concrete does not have a top coat sealer requiring drying and curing time and does not need re-applying in the future which will save time and money in the long run. Because Polished Concrete does not require drying or curing time it can be used as soon as the process is completed unlike the Grind & Seal option. All floors are slippery when wet, a non slip agent can be added to a top coat sealer which would be the Grind & Seal method which we do apply in a shower area if there is not a shower base. Polished Concrete in Matte and Satin finish does have a very good slip rating, has no grout lines as with tiled floors where dust can get trapped therefore it is a wonderful easy to clean flooring solution. Hope this helps, I have provided some details regarding the 2 main processes below There are 2 different finishing processes / methods that are commonly called Polished Concrete, they are very different so it is important that you know the difference & which process/method you want and which is being used on your concrete Polished Concrete - 12 to 17+ step process During this process the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure. After grinding the concrete surface, the Polished Concrete process begins. This process has a densifier applied in multiple stages that is absorbed into the concrete which hardens and strengthens the concrete. A Polished Concrete Floor is Polished in Multiple stages in a Refining Process using diamond tooling & resin pads. A penetrating sealer is applied in the final buffing stage to complete the process The "Polished Concrete" process has "NO TOP COAT SEALER" applied therefore there is no drying or curing time required so your space can be used as soon as the process is completed Grind & Seal (a 3 to 4 step process) This is NOT Polished Concrete. Grind & Seal is often referred to as Polished Concrete, this is the cheaper substitute that gives a "Polished Concrete Look" With the Grind & Seal method the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure and a TOP Coat Sealer is applied such as water based, solvent based, urethane, acrylic or epoxy requiring 5-7 days to dry & cure