Thank you hechan. No your cabinets would not go to the ceiling, but the wall of shallow cabinets would. This is because having high up storage is better than not having any at all, and they are still useful for the odd vase or Xmas serving ware etc, Also it is necessary for this walled look to look right. The other column cupboard would do the same, as I like that it looks like a column or structural element and not joinery. However, laminate sheets are typically 2400mm x 1200 so they can only go to this height before. Join is necessary, this is another reason I have placed an open shelf ut on top, ring in a timber toned material, means the Join is intentional, as hiding them often fails. As for the wall, the cabinetmaker would literally stack your carcasses on top of each other, therefore the join once again is only visible at the end, where I have also placed an open unit. No bulkhead is necessary, a 20mm shadow line is left under the ceiling level, in your case the shadow line would be the minimum distance that tour plaster strapping is. The cabinetmaker would worry about this detail, you would simply ask for floor to ceiling. Retaining any architectural features is always a plus for resale, as the homes facade will generally show definite characteristics of the homes era, and this is what potential buyers are drawn to. As a result, people interested in post war, deco or ore styled homes are always grateful for retained period details, however minimal, and infact, the ceilings are the single most appreciated element of a homes design. Ts is because is generally is what gives you the wow factor, demanding your attention instantly upon entering, and they also do not dictate or influence the interior as far as your furnishings goes. You could decorate sympathetically, or contradictory to them, and either will work. The ceiling, floors and windows are the single most desirable elements of period homes, you have the ceiling and the window, most likely beautiful hardwood floors also. These elements provide all the details you need, and a lovely back drop for a simple and sophisticated fit out. Contemporary by comparison is ever popular as mod cons and innovative materials are as equally requested as period charm. Thank you for your compliments. I pride myself on being a pragmatic designer, often good design comes from the need to work within limited parameters, such as yours. But that's easily resolved wi details at address things like maximum ceiling heights with an understanding of material restrictions, ie the panel sizes in your joinery, or understanding what the joiner needs to consider before designing for them. I have an architectural fit out background, and designed many types of firings from showrooms, magazine sets and many more private houses. I'm glad you like it.

There are two basic ways to construct this column. you can either construct a timber frame including posts and beams detailing the framed dimensions of a hollow column, then clad in a sheet bracing like a ply or blue board to become rigid. Then adhere a cladding stone to that. Depending on your budget, cladding stone can be in the form of stacked stone in tile sheets, or you can opt for a range of real stone options. Bowral offer an engineered stone that can clad a framed wall in this manner, you may also source genuine stone and have paving stone of say 50mm thick applied by a stonemason. the alternative is to construct a full stone pier, either with exposed joints, or to appear as a drystone construction. A stonemason needs to do this, and can do so around a structural post and beam configuration, allowing your parapet to cut through the pier as shown. Your timber framing regardless is done first, with the stonemason working to box in the structure, before finishing your blue board etc.

We have already removed a wall. And although this advice isn’t about floors or ceilings, it’s still important. We strongly recommend obtaining advice from a professional engineer, or demanding evidence that your builder has (and insist it’s free of caveats like, “based on information provided by others”). Our builder removed a load bearing wall. He was supposed to get an engineer’s assessment. The cheapsake, cowboy, con artist didn’t do that. He deceived. He had a rough guess at the size of the beam. And he got it wrong. We asked for a copy of the engineer’s assessment. The builder lied about having one. Then finally admitted he guessed. He engaged an engineer. The assessment had caveats. We insisted it be caveat free. The engineers then had to inspect his work. They found the cowboy had lied to them too - and given false info about what was put in. His beam was under-dimensioned and not even braced to the house. The engineers gave the builder simple instructions to rectify his muck up. Three beams later, the idiot got it right. And the engineers could then approve the work. But remember, on paper they had already declared the under dimensioned beam was ok (but with a caveat). Moral of the story - insist on a site inspection by the engineer. Or, just like our roof could have, your roof might cave in! And probably not on top of the idiot builder who would deserve to be buried under it! Btw - hello John Z. Ears burning by any chance? There’s some good people around but it’s hard for a lay person to tell who’s who, so do what you can to protect yourself from cowboys, is our message.

thanks, below is the bin cabin i am looking to get its 450mm https://www.arova.com.au/collections/side-mount/products/soft-close-70l-pull-out-waste-bin-for-450mm-cainet-white the reason i put 1440 wide is that the maximum wide benchtops comes in, since it needs a joint due to the column i can cut the 3000mm stone cut in the middle and make 1500 wide of more, no problems. moving the door involved too much work like cutting bricks, door frame etc. Agree the 600mm is too deep for top cabinets, i am thinking of doing 600mm drawers with a bench then like 300-400 gap, and top cabintes at 450 or 300mm deep.