Hi Jimmy South facing can be challenging, not only in getting natural light into interiors, but also because any additions you add will put your garden in more shade. Some work can be done to ensure that the interior is well lit naturally - as has been suggested. Be aware that the garden space will need to be designed also to deal with being shady and cool. I'm not sure where abouts in Australia you are, and if cold and damp winters are an issue. For example, this home faces south, and I designed an extension that popped up over the existing house with a clerestory window to bring northern light into a double height void within the new space. We got great light internally, but the garden was always in shade - so grass and plant selection was made accordingly. I know you're not planning something this significant, but think about strategies you can use to bring northern light - or even eastern light - down into your new extension. Perhaps you can extend lengthwise into the garden and pull it back from your eastern boundary, to get some morning light onto an internal concrete floor and provide some natural warmth in winter through thermal mass. I also recommend if you're planning lots of glazing (even skylights), that you look for ways you'll prevent heat loss in winter, and heat gain in summer. Skylights such as Velux sky windows are great for top lighting (you could again look at arranging your roof so that you can face the skylights east), and you can get them double glazed, with blinds in them for shade when required. Best wishes for planning your extension. These brick homes can be modernised so well, it's a lot of fun to see their transformation. You can see a late 1960s home that was my own renovation project here - we had a lot of fun and the transformation can be quite dramatic when finished. Regards Amelia Lee Undercover Architect www.undercoverarchitect.com.au amelia@undercoverarchitect.com.au

Judging by the plan, the photos and your comments it appears that too much heat is coming in from high light glazing (clerestory windows) into the lounge and dining areas. Both rooms will be cold in winter because the direct heat from these windows is not enough and not absorbed in an thermal mass and they do not have ground level windows or glazed doors facing north. The elevated floor means that it is cold under the house so heating in winter goes down as well as up. The roof would lack adequate insulation due to the period in which the house was built. The roof tiles probably have another 15 years maybe a bit more so it is costly to insulate from the top (i.e. taking roof tiles off adding insulation then putting roof tiles back in again. The colour of them is contributing a lot to the heat. So what to do. - add external shading device to the highlight glazing, maybe timber battens 40 x 40 at 20mm spacings. This will block direct sunlight within the shading season. That helps to reduce heat intact and see how you go. If that does not work then - add a rigid foam core board to the underside of the timber ceiling, e.g. Foilboard which is 20mm thick r 2, then install a 12mm plywood ceiling lining under this. That way you retain the timber rafter ceilings but also one that has a light coloured (hoop pine ply) timber in between. (Note this is costly) - big gains in heat loss is achieved with underfloor insulation. Try r3 bulk squeezed tightly between the floor joists. Then you can plan for the future with the following - change glass in windows and glazed doors to a low e glass - install insulation into the cavity of the external walls using a company called envirowall. - replace roof tiles with a light coloured metal roof, replace the existing roof battens with a 100 x 40 batten so that you can install a 100mm thick anticon insulation. All of the above costs money and if you don't do it then it costs money to burn energy to keep the living rooms between 21 to 27 degrees year round (what we consider comfortable) so if it tough to decide what to do or not. As an alternative For about 40k you could spend 30 of it on solar cells, and an awesome battery (Tesla powerwall 2) and buy some wall mounted ac units. But that would be kicking the can down the road. But sometimes you have no choice. Good luck

In my early twenties I designed kitchens for my mother and two aunts (Uncle built them and they worked), but when it came to designing my own - had to fit a constrained space and no possibility of extension - I chewed my lips for ages - like Nicole, I drew and measured ad infinitum, and used graph book walls, views etc. I did one extra thing - which I think worked - I listed all that I wanted to store, and tried to analyse how I liked working in the kitchen. Some things I had to settle for because of space (such as a smaller dishwasher) but most of it has worked. We have a corner pantry, which I (and the cat, husband a bit larger) can walk into, but have not put small appliances in there - they sit in a large drawer beneath the main working bench, which also works well. It all looks good to me Nicole and thinking carefully about needs and how things work in advance usually results in something you'll be happy with. Good luck!

If the window is in a shower recess you need to take special precautions for waterproofing to protect the timber reveal. If the window is not at risk of water damage then a standard timber reveal and architrave should work. I would suggest an aluminium awning window with a powdercoated finish would be good as it doesn't have a track if it is not in a shower recess. If it is in a shower recess consider a louvred window, without an architrave. When your shower recess has its waterproof membrane applied continue the waterproof membrane over the reveal up to the aluminium frame then tile over. Don't put a timber (or MDF) architrave around a window that is exposed to water as it will just rot out, along with the timber reveal. Best of luck Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls