How funny. I just renovated (on a budget) my small kitchen and added exactly the slate look in tiles you have, though they are in fact porcelain. And I placed them throughout the house for continuity. The tiler asked if I was after a retro hippy look but it doesn't look like that at all. My cupboards were the same colour as yours and I utilised the bones of the kitchen and had the doors and Benchtops changed only. I also have plenty of light in the kitchen but chose white doors and as I was on a budget I chose granite look Benchtops, they are very serviceable and it looks great. The blue backsplash was the colour lift and here you could choose any colour to your liking. Basically the kitchen ended up with white cupboards and appliances other than cooktop, with the stainless cooktop and coloured splash back being the focal point. The paint colour are: whisper white walls, integra splashback, white ceiling and for increased contrast I used the same white above the splashback on the rear wall. I would consider painting out the brick but leaving the texture.

Hi Sofia I definitely think brick lay would work better on the walls in the bathroom purely because you have a 30x30 on the floor and a 30x60 on the wall. You will find the tiles could look out of place trying to stack them. It would be a different matter if they did not share 1 or more dimension. Perhaps in the ensuite, consider doing something like this: [https://www.houzz.com.au/photos/what-architecture-beirutful-house-eclectic-patio-london-phvw-vp~14310278[(https://www.houzz.com.au/photos/what-architecture-beirutful-house-eclectic-patio-london-phvw-vp~14310278) Tile the floor and half way up the back wall with the "floor tiles", perhaps a tile or 2 above the vanity unit and then continue with the white tiles to the ceiling. You could hang your mirror so it covered about 1/4 of the "floor tile" and 3/4 of the white above the centre of the sink. In the main bathroom consider something like this: [https://www.houzz.com.au/photos/victorian-dream-bathroom-victorian-bathroom-london-phvw-vp~39122647[(https://www.houzz.com.au/photos/victorian-dream-bathroom-victorian-bathroom-london-phvw-vp~39122647) Tiling the back wall to the shower in the "floor tile" to the ceiling with the white tiles behind the loo to the ceiling. Alternatively, tiling the entire back wall with the "floor tiles". The first option may make the bathroom feel smaller if the shower takes up more than 1/3 of the back wall. Doing the two different options would give the bathrooms continuity, but also some individuality. I hope this helps. Look forward to perhaps seeing the outcome. James

Hi Chris The cheapest option is Grind & Seal, but we usually recommend Mechanically Polished Concrete for inside of a home. This is by far a better option, if you were to go for a Matte or Satin finish it is less expensive than a higher gloss finish. Mechanically Polished Concrete does not have a top coat sealer requiring drying and curing time and does not need re-applying in the future which will save time and money in the long run. Because Polished Concrete does not require drying or curing time it can be used as soon as the process is completed unlike the Grind & Seal option. All floors are slippery when wet, a non slip agent can be added to a top coat sealer which would be the Grind & Seal method which we do apply in a shower area if there is not a shower base. Polished Concrete in Matte and Satin finish does have a very good slip rating, has no grout lines as with tiled floors where dust can get trapped therefore it is a wonderful easy to clean flooring solution. Hope this helps, I have provided some details regarding the 2 main processes below There are 2 different finishing processes / methods that are commonly called Polished Concrete, they are very different so it is important that you know the difference & which process/method you want and which is being used on your concrete Polished Concrete - 12 to 17+ step process During this process the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure. After grinding the concrete surface, the Polished Concrete process begins. This process has a densifier applied in multiple stages that is absorbed into the concrete which hardens and strengthens the concrete. A Polished Concrete Floor is Polished in Multiple stages in a Refining Process using diamond tooling & resin pads. A penetrating sealer is applied in the final buffing stage to complete the process The "Polished Concrete" process has "NO TOP COAT SEALER" applied therefore there is no drying or curing time required so your space can be used as soon as the process is completed Grind & Seal (a 3 to 4 step process) This is NOT Polished Concrete. Grind & Seal is often referred to as Polished Concrete, this is the cheaper substitute that gives a "Polished Concrete Look" With the Grind & Seal method the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure and a TOP Coat Sealer is applied such as water based, solvent based, urethane, acrylic or epoxy requiring 5-7 days to dry & cure

I’d go with timber or cork. Cork is great in a kitchen. Easy on your feet and joints and things are much less likely to break if you drop them. Especially as you age, tiles cause fatigue if you are standing in the kitchen for too long. Cork is now available in lots of different colours and styles including charcoals and greys that might compliment your slate. It’s not all 80s orange. Of course timber can look great too. Just make sure it’s ok for kitchen use.