You can go onto RoomSketcher as you have your dimensions should be easy, you can then put furniture in layout.

Thanks oklouise,

I'm going to inquire about the extra vanity to the WC and see how much more it will cost, I like how you have it drawn up.

I don't know why I want double doors to the rumpus but the way you have the cavity slider looks alright, it will be cheaper as well so might all look into that as well.

FYI, the way I had envisioned where the TV in the living is located is on the wall between the wood heater and the west wall. And the TV in the Rumpus to be on the west wall.

based on the width of the rumpus room i suggest that the TV would be better placed on the eastern wall to allow for enough seating and view of the fire as well as the tv...the lounges in my plan are 2100 x 900 for maximumn seating and you'll need a good block out curtain to screen the screen and pay attention to the direction the sliding doors opens but you could also consider highlight windows on the western wall ie high wide window placed up high under the eaves will help with ventilation with minimum hot western sun

Yeah, but my rumpus is 5640mm long. Having the couches at the back, on the west wall is a bit far from the TV in my opinion. It does work the best though for the fireplace but I'm also planning a future outdoor place next to the rumpus, hence why I have the stacker door for another future outdoor room.

I have attached all measurements for full context.

To have a powder room, does not mean you need a full vanity with cabinets. A simple wall hung basin with a Kmart mirror would be sufficient. it's getting the plumbing installed would be the major cost.

agree with mummagabz it's amazing how many home builders use the sliding glass door in the laundry which is a total waste of space, a single hinged glass door allows you to run the cabinets to the wall, I would add a window above the bench next to the single door for light and ventiilation, you won't get any ventilation with the sliding door

I have roughly marked a few changes, Your wood burner between two rooms causes a problem with your furniture layout, I suggest that you move it to the long wall as marked in Black. Wood burners will naturally spread the heat between both of these spaces if the doors are opened. You need to look at being able to close off the bedroom wing to keep the family room warm and open up this wing when necessary ., With the fire moved your rumpus room will have a better layout, The Rumpus room sliding door would be better opening from left to right

The kitchen island doesn't work there's too big a gap between it and the cooker wall, 1200 would be better, with a simple straight island avoiding a corner cabinet which you won't gain from this will also add more floor space into the squished current dining

Orange shows furniture, black the island and heater

I would change the entrance to bed's 2 & 3

I would want a long vanity in the family bathroom, with a small wall inserted hand basin backing onto it for the Powder room

I have also changed some doors and the way they open.

The master looks great except I would swap the WC and shower

Just my thoughts

Swapping the shower with the WC in the master keeps the wet area opposite the vanity which is more ideal, and then remove the door between the ensuite and WIR and add extra cabinets butting up to the WC wall. This extra cabinet could be a linen cabinet to store towels etc

Removing this door which will be a pain in my opinion, never used and will stop any extra light back into the robe will save some costs which could be put towards the extra cabinets

"There is no natural gas where I'm building so that's why I'm putting the double sided wood heater in to heat both rooms in winter."

So wood heater as an alternative to gas which is unavailable?

Neither of those are the direction sustainable homebuilding is moving in. Have you thought about anything else? And what will heat the rest of the house?

macyjean, I will be putting in a few split systems and then later (when I can afford it) I'll probably put in electric heating and cooling. The builder is going to put the spacing in the ceiling during the build so when I'm ready not much will have to be done.

I'll be relying on the split systems more that the wood heater but always wanted one. I already have it picked out.

siriuskey thanks for the ideas, I will look them over.

FYI the wood heater is going to look like this:

Living Room side

Rumpus room side

I know some people that have a similar type of setup and it does work. The fireplace will be flush with the wall on the Rumpus side but stick out on the Living Room side.

There are some very good ideas here for me to consider, so thanks all.

What about the stacker door layout in the family/meals? Do the 2 stacker doors with the wall in-between work or would it be better to change it to a biparting stacker door? You see more of the Outdoor Living with the 2 stacker doors in my opinion.

Also I think I'll remove the void in the WIP and extend the bench to the wall and the just have shelving on the opposite wall.

I like the entry ideas to bed's 2 and 3 and also a cavity slider into the nook wall to close off the bedroom wing.

I've been thinking of the kitchen island. Not sure why I was so set on the L now.

I can save about 480mm of space and add that to the dining and family if I take the L off and bring the bench closer to the cooker. This would make the space between the island and cooker 1250mm.

It would also hide a bit more of the island from the front entry.

Bringing the island in also means I would have to reduce the space of the sink bench but that bench is already pretty long at 3200mm, I can bring it down to about 2600.

Cheaper too allowing saving in kitchen to go to powder room

I would go with the 2 stacker doors, as already mentioned I woud consider changing the way the stacker opens in the Rumpus.

I don't think reducing the length of the kitchen sink bench by 600 is necessary remember to keep the width of the window in mind when considering this, the main consideration for me is trying to keep the sink as far out of sight of the entrance

I'll look at changing the direction of the stacker in the rumpus. It was on my to-do list anyway.

The island should be in line with the end of the sink bench yeah? So if I bring the island in then I'd have to reduce the sink bench as well?

"The island should be in line with the end of the sink bench yeah? So if I bring the island in then I'd have to reduce the sink bench as well?" NO,

I will look to see your dimensions, Remember that the island will have stools? with people sitting on them, which means pulling them out

Agree, NO the island doesn't have to be in line with the sink bench. just a quick photo search and you will see there are plenty of examples of different length island and benches.

Thanks, my building consultant suggested to reduce it if I removed the L, that's why I mentioned it.

I might reduce it slightly as I think 3200 is quite big. Maybe I can reduce it to about 2900 but yeah I won't reduce it that much.

Hard to say without more dimensions, but what ever you do it's important that you work with the kitchen window and first stacker door. The island set away from any benches by 1200 is a good choice

Another thought without clear dimensions, I would consider moving the door/s into the Rumpus to the Alfresco side of the room as this would give you better use of all the spaces, ie: the long wall that extends from the bedrooms is more suitable to better furniture layout

Thanks siruakey, they had that location of the door on that side originally but I moved it.

I figure it's better on the master side as when you enter the house from either the porch or Garage you can walk straight into the rumpus. Otherwise you will have to cross all the furniture of the meals and living to get the rumpus if it was placed on the west side.

With the bathroom, would it be better to move the bath along the wall where the window is and then the vanity between the shower and bath on the garage wall?

Personally I think the Rumpus doors would be better in the original position and great access to the planned Alfresco, Didn't look at your family bath yet but did suggest you swapped the WC and shower in the ensuite which opens up the vanity end and keeps the water and drying to that part of the ensuite instead of next to the robe

You could look to have the bath and shower parallel to each other and have the vanity as you enter the bathroom in place of walking into the shower.

"You could look to have the bath and shower parallel to each other and have the vanity as you enter the bathroom in place of walking into the shower."

That's how I originally wanted it but my building consultant said they can't do it as it only leaves a 670mm gap between the shower and bath.

Been trying to push for that change but can't get them to do it...

can you give all room dimensions including door and window

I posted it earlier. The 2 images I put in a few posts back have all the dimensions

I need more than that please

Sorry siriuskry, that's all they gave me.

Not sure what else I can provide?

This is all pre engineering plans.

Siriusky, the full dimensions with all windows and doors were posted two days ago by Kendogc.

Just want to say thanks for all the feedback you have all provided, really appreciate it.

I can see how much better the kitchen works with a straight line rectangular island, also reducing the kitchen sink window size makes sense as well.

I'm also now probably going to change the Master double doors to a single 820 door. I like the 'grand' aspect of the double doors but upon further thinking it makes no sense having double doors for where my master is located, I will also gain 820mm wall space back which can be used for furniture in the room, like a couch or table.

I just feel an 820mm door to a big master is wasted for the looks, but probably is the more smarter and practical way to go.

If those double doors near the entry were into a living space that would be perfect but totally unnecessary for a bedroom as you need more privacy and would only use one door, having said that if you still like the look of it , do it and just use the one door.

I finally managed to read your dimensions on my little Asus. and would like to suggest the following which gives you a real Powder room that would suit guests from inside the house or coming via the laundry from the Alfresco. It gives you a double vanity and a shower width of 1100 which can be reduced to 900 which will give more floor space between it and the vanity. My walls are all 100 where as yours are 90, the original bathroom is 2470 wide but my CAD jumps to 75 etc

Thanks siriuskey, I'm struggling to see where the shower is, is next to the door where the small circle is? And is it going from left to right in length?

So moving the powder room to the top and the toilet on the side of the door.

Thanks for the design change, I will try to picture it on my plans and see if it can work.

I agree that the bathroom needs to be changed, I don't like where the shower is currently.

As you enter the bathroom the shower screen is on the left the door shows where you access it and the bath away from the entrance so avoids water on the floor

Hello there, I am going to throw a huge spanner into this: Please look up PASSIVE SOLAR DESIGN before you go any further with this: as the land faces north, the garage will get hot and the house and garden will be cold, dull, dark and cost a bomb to heat always. If you look at the land and the plan from the PSD viewpoint it is wrong and costly. Sorry but there it is..... As it is you will have morning light into bedrooms and late afternoon (HOT) sun to the back. Love to help further with designing for a block across the road with the north to the back garden or better still in a side street with the long side taking advantage of FREE heating! Sorry... but please do not waste all the effort on getting it wrong. :( Margot

It would as always help to see your and other allotments in the Cul des sac .as to why your house has been positioned as it is, I'am guessing it's all a bit too late seeing as you are at your last changes stage

Margot, @Kitchen and Home Sketch Designs

yes this question was asked and answered 6 days ago.

the plans show the easements on the property.

@kendogc is asking about finalising the plans, because they have one change available.

to move the garage now maybe more than a spanner, but more like a full engine change.

@Kitchen and Home Sketch Designs thanks for the comment and I agree that the house position could be better.

But if you look at my very first image of my block, you will see my frontage is only about 12.5m with a 3m easement on the west and south which I cannot build over.

Where else would you put the garage? The living areas will basically have to be right on the Cul des sac (which I don't want).

The block slopes from right to left (north to south) with the south side being about 2m below. If the garage was going there, it increases site costs and driveway costs and lose a heap of land trying to get the house to work for North facing.

I appreciate the comments but as @siriuskey and @dreamer said, it's all too late now. I am on my final changes round.

It will be a complete do over if I would start again which I can't do as I already have a contract signed.

More than happy to see how you can maximize backyard space and have it work to be north facing with the easements and I could take it to my building consultant to see if a change that big could be done with minimal cost.

Thanks

Yes i am assuming that @Kitchen and Home Sketch Designs has not looked at your land properly from your post. And not realised you have neighbours fences everywhere except for where the proposed driveway is positioned. All the best for your build.

Hey @dreamer yes, it appears so.

But I do appreciate that and know it isn't maximizing PSD but not much I can do really.

Below is the plan of the estate, I am lot 48

As you can see, IMO, the long Ranch type home works best on the block. I played around with other designs but nothing really worked. The living or kitchen will have to be on the south to open into the backyard but I would rather it be on the west where it will get more light than the south.

Stage 1 is built now and all neighbours around me.

Won't the alfresco, which is west faced, help with taking some of the hear away as it has a roof?

Also I am looking at adding a highlight windows on the west wall of the rumpus.

Yes, the alfresco will shade the west sun, and once you move in you can work out whether other shading is required and where. You have plenty of room on the west boundary to plant trees for shading or a pergola with creeping plants.

the bedrooms are on the east side, so they will get the morning sun, but be cool to go to bed at night time. I feel you have dealt with the land in the best way possible.

thank you for posting the estate plan. It does put everything into context. I'm liking the size of all the blocks, good sizes, not pokey little 400sqm or less blocks, which tend to be the normal thing in some developments.

Thanks.

I bought this block 2 years ago and didn't think about the orientation when I purchased it. It was all new to me.

After more research, technically, it's 'North' faced, but in reality 'north faced' is for blocks that have the backyard and living areas in the north, so they are actually 'south faced' blocks that will be the most desirable. My orientation is probably the least desirable, so, in hindsight, I made a mistake.

I probable should have bought one of the blocks at top of the estate with a 'south facing' front, but I wanted a bigger block.

Yes the size of the blocks in the estate are favorable, it is a country town after all :)

Would you recommend a hightlight windows for the Rumpus on the west wall as i'm removing the 2 windows? Or just leave it with no window at all?

the only mistake would be not making the best of what you already have.. it's a great house and the size and location of windows can help improve PSD ...YourHome.gov has lots of ideas for improving design for existing homes with less than ideal orientation but depending on your local climate "north facing" isn't always ideal for every room.. we deliberately built a south west facing room because it's good to have light in all rooms, western sun is great in cold weather and overheating is easily controlled with insulation and external blinds and a south facing room will be easily cooled in hot weather ... a highlight window in your rumpus room will help brighten the room and allow for easier furniture placement and shade cloth roller blinds on the outside of the alfresco can shade western sun from kitchen and family living and dining areas...good luck with your build and enjoy your new home

Can I ask a question about highlight windows? I'm looking to put a 512x2398 highlight window in the rumpus but it's going to be placed at the bottom of the eave. Is this correct or should it be placed higher? So basically I will have 2000mm from floor to architrave of the window (from inside) and my ceiling height is 2740mm.

ask your builder as the window should be able to be placed wherever you like subject to the structural requirements...ie is under the eaves sloped or boxed in? either way you should still have plenty of light in the window and remember an external blind if you find that the room overheats

I'm sorry but I don't get what you mean by "bottom of eave or higher"

you can't place it higher than the eave, because it would be Covered by the eave, if eave is boxed in.

My highlight window on a 2740 ceiling is also internally 2000 from floor to architrave.

i thought this was the normal installation height.

@dreamer thanks for the photo.

I'm a complete noob at all this. I don't know any of the terminology, like what does "boxed in" mean for the eave?

All I know is that I have a 450mm eave around the whole house.

But you basically answered the question. If that is normal then all good. I was just wondering if there are height placement options for it.

I'll just leave it how the builder has recommended.

There should still be enough room to put a TV under the window should I end up placing it on that wall.

Thanks

dreamer's photo shows a boxed in eave but it's also possible to have the underside of the eaves sloped like a raked ceiling so that the window can be higher but this is usually an optional/more cost extra that is ideal if you want a high window eg above kitchen wall cabinets

A photo of the inside of the same window. Plenty of sun coming in this afternoon, and room for a television either on wall or TV unit.

Hi all,

My final plans just came back today and I thought I'd share them:

I am past my free change rounds now, any further changes and there will be fees involved.

I'm happy with everything but did think of something today. Currently the ensuite shower door and ensuite entry door will collide if the doors are in the position the ensuite entry door is in on the plan. I was thinking of making the ensuite entry longer by moving the door back about 300mm (which will make the ensuite more uniform in shape and stop the doors colliding).

But i'm just going tp leave it, I think it's fine as it is.

Thanks for all the recommendations :)

congrats on finalising your plan. As said in my previous posts, I think you have done the best for the orientation of block and the entrance to your land.

I would leave as is with your ensuite. I don't think the ensuite door and the shower door would be open at the same time.

Well done and all the best for the build.