Thank you hechan. No your cabinets would not go to the ceiling, but the wall of shallow cabinets would. This is because having high up storage is better than not having any at all, and they are still useful for the odd vase or Xmas serving ware etc, Also it is necessary for this walled look to look right. The other column cupboard would do the same, as I like that it looks like a column or structural element and not joinery. However, laminate sheets are typically 2400mm x 1200 so they can only go to this height before. Join is necessary, this is another reason I have placed an open shelf ut on top, ring in a timber toned material, means the Join is intentional, as hiding them often fails. As for the wall, the cabinetmaker would literally stack your carcasses on top of each other, therefore the join once again is only visible at the end, where I have also placed an open unit. No bulkhead is necessary, a 20mm shadow line is left under the ceiling level, in your case the shadow line would be the minimum distance that tour plaster strapping is. The cabinetmaker would worry about this detail, you would simply ask for floor to ceiling. Retaining any architectural features is always a plus for resale, as the homes facade will generally show definite characteristics of the homes era, and this is what potential buyers are drawn to. As a result, people interested in post war, deco or ore styled homes are always grateful for retained period details, however minimal, and infact, the ceilings are the single most appreciated element of a homes design. Ts is because is generally is what gives you the wow factor, demanding your attention instantly upon entering, and they also do not dictate or influence the interior as far as your furnishings goes. You could decorate sympathetically, or contradictory to them, and either will work. The ceiling, floors and windows are the single most desirable elements of period homes, you have the ceiling and the window, most likely beautiful hardwood floors also. These elements provide all the details you need, and a lovely back drop for a simple and sophisticated fit out. Contemporary by comparison is ever popular as mod cons and innovative materials are as equally requested as period charm. Thank you for your compliments. I pride myself on being a pragmatic designer, often good design comes from the need to work within limited parameters, such as yours. But that's easily resolved wi details at address things like maximum ceiling heights with an understanding of material restrictions, ie the panel sizes in your joinery, or understanding what the joiner needs to consider before designing for them. I have an architectural fit out background, and designed many types of firings from showrooms, magazine sets and many more private houses. I'm glad you like it.

I'd be combining the kitchen and laundry by knocking out the wall between them and concealing the laundry appliances in the new kitchen. Ikea kitchen, nearly new appliances (someone is always selling a new appliance that doesn't fit) and flooring (the new linos look really good or perhaps a laminate floor?) If you had the budget, I'd also turn the bedroom next to the laundry into the dining room so your living area connects to the back deck with a lovely sliding door. Maybe also remove wall between laundry and bedroom to create open plan living? Not sure if this is possible if walls are load bearing, but steel beams can fix that maybe? Dining room then becomes bedroom. I like connecting living rooms to outdoor areas, but that's the Aussie in me. Good luck! P.s. Find a good carpenter who charges by the hour maybe? (I married mine!)

Just a few thoughts. I like the overall concept of the kitchen but it is rather disjointed. I agree with clearing everything off the surfaces and trying to keep them free miss a feature bowl for the island. You could add an eating area as this would make it more purposeful but I would not do it if it compromised the size and functionality of your living area. The piece of timber joining the two walls at the entrance seems superfluous and I if was removed it would instantly look more contemporary. You could extend those walls up to the height of the cabinets and repaint in a lighter colour. This could reduce your light but this can be dealt with in other ways. I love wood cabinets but the top ones up look heavy- perhaps they could be painted a light colour to reflect the light coming in from the entrance but I would revisit your lighting in general. There is a lot of timber with the floor, cabinets and ceiling and this makes the space quite dark? if you did extend your walls you might find the kitchen darker so paint cabinets. I like the idea of wallpaper but only if you have an even shaped wall and if the pattern works with your living scheme. Whatever you do with your walls will need to correspond with the adjacent entrance walls. You didn't mention your budget but I would start at the simple end and if it doesn't give you the result you want move to the more complex solutions. All the best

thanks, below is the bin cabin i am looking to get its 450mm https://www.arova.com.au/collections/side-mount/products/soft-close-70l-pull-out-waste-bin-for-450mm-cainet-white the reason i put 1440 wide is that the maximum wide benchtops comes in, since it needs a joint due to the column i can cut the 3000mm stone cut in the middle and make 1500 wide of more, no problems. moving the door involved too much work like cutting bricks, door frame etc. Agree the 600mm is too deep for top cabinets, i am thinking of doing 600mm drawers with a bench then like 300-400 gap, and top cabintes at 450 or 300mm deep.