Sorry, what do you mean by “thing on the roof”.

The concrete walls in the garage can be painted with a concrete paint after hand over. Same with the steps up into the home. Installation of a rail may be beneficial. The other part of the walls look like they are finished correctly.

When I said rail, I mean a hand rail on the steps.

I mean the small stick protruding in the roof tile

So for the wall it’s acceptable to have an unrendered wall upon handover?

Did you contract say it would be rendered? The garage looks fine to me. You certainly wouldn’t want it plastered and susceptible to damp. I can’t see enough of the roof problem to make a comment.

Nothing was mentioned about the garage in the contract, however it appears to be unfinished and porous which is susceptible to moisture isn’t it?

This is not the wall that is on the bottom part of wall. It is the concrete slab for the floor for the rest of your home. Painting it will be fine, no need to cover with plasterboard. Leaving it uncovered would be best.

Examples of garages with exposed concrete foundations in the garage.

Thanks for the advise 👍 do i still have to do anything else before painting the bottom part of the wall with concrete paint?

Since I’ll be painting the floor with Berger, do you reckon i can use the same for the wall too?

Yes.

Will take your advice. Appreciate your tips @dreamer. Thanks

@dreamer: for the garage wall, should i clean it up with water first before painting?

Refer to the paint for instructions on preparation. A clean, not dusty and a dry service would be best.

The roof looks a bit of a worry to me -- at the very least , get someone independent to look at it . Maybe its a design feature , or maybe it's a stuff-up , but basically the front tiled part of the roof comes to a point about 30cms forward , and 20cm lower , compared to the side profiles . In my opinion , the entire side sections should have been 30cm longer , so you would have had a 'square' corner , rather than the awkward looking lower section , and the kink in the guttering .

And that stick looks like the caps don't quite stretch the full depth to the gutter -- hard to tell from a photo , but it has the potential for water ingress -- aka leaking !

Thanks @pottsy99 for your insight. Will definitely look on this… the built gives us so much headache.

To me it looks like the roof frame wasn’t quite right and this was the builders resolution with the roof tiler and plumber.. The framing might have been from the engineering. Or the architectural design. Hard to know from one small photo.

The roof is missing some Ridge Capping which is needed. The walls in the garage look terrible why has the builder run some of the walls to the floor and not the other for me they should match

I’d look at tanking the base of garage with a waterproofing layer if it is to be used for any storage beyond car and garden products

It doesn't look nicely finished but it is a garage.

Was it based on a display home? Or was it assumed that a wall would look like a wall down to the floor? I mean did you ever see anything that led you to an expectation that it would be finished a certain way?

"Nothing was mentioned about the garage in the contract, however it appears to be unfinished and porous which is susceptible to moisture isn’t it?"

What do you mean, do you mean the surface visible to you? Do you know what is on the other side? What changes on the other side where it goes to a full length painted wall? I am guessing there is some split levels going on? Just looking at the pics again, especially the door, is there a damp proof course visible?

As I have mentioned before. I assume, The exposed concrete is not a built wall, but the foundations and is the concrete slab. The part of the finished wall next to the garage door, is probably where the front door steps are therefore the concrete foundation’s are lower, hence the finished walls are all at foundation/slab level. Therefore two different levels. Garage floor, ground level, the stepped up for house level.

I wish I could draw what I'm trying to say. The slab isn't that thick is it? So I'm thinking it's like a small retaining wall with the house slab on top, and it's the edge of that which is visible inside the garage?

Having had a recent disaster with a garage wall myself, getting it right is really important. Charlotte seems to be talking about dealing with the aesthetics of it on the surface visible in the garage.

@macyjean, now curious with the disaster you had with your garage wall, what happened?
As I have no idea what’s behind the garage concrete wall, I can only think of the aesthetics.

It goes back to what Kate said about waterproofing.

The plans should give you an idea of what's behind the wall, though of course it doesn't guarantee it was done properly.

I complaint to my builder and this is what they replied.

‘With regards to the front left and right roof, the certifier attended site and advise it is installed correctly.

What’s installed is called a zero boundary barge, the gap at each end releases water into the gully.

Area is working as per Australian standard and design and no further action will be taken.’

If you read the forum. Homeone, there's a good picture showing how it looks.

What does the other corner look like.

Was the Certifier was Private, I would take the photos to your council for advice

https://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92312

https://shedblog.com.au/gutters-barges-and-ridge-capping/

Siriusky, those examples are for colorbond roofing. Are there examples of the same scenario with difficult to cut roof tiles?
If the water flow of rain is correct and does not penetrate the internal part of roof, and disperses into gutters, then the job is complete.

My links refers to "zero boundary barge" and how that is applied, this is what the builder mentioned to explain what he used. This is not a boundary issue, it's two mismatched gutters.

By the looks of my roofing, does that mean that thing on my roof were done correctly?

With the photo in Homeone, the "zero boundary barge" was done neatly, cant complaint on that. Mine is way different from that one, is mine still considered "zero boundary barge" look?

As I said there are no examples that I can find with a tiled roof and two different heights of gutters. I think the roofers have done the best job with the architecture provided.

Charlotte, did anyone advise you to pay and engage your own inspector at key stages of the build? Keep in mind if you build again.

@bigreader, nope. something to definitely keep in mind in the future. My bad, as I relied too much on my builder's certifier.

I still suggest that you seek council advice. Private Certifiers became more prevalent when building approvals in NSW were taking too long. We have a friend who was a council Certifier and decided to go into a private partnership and from what he witnessed he very quickly decided that was a bad idea, and returned to council.

I still suggest that you speak with council and ask for their help and advice.

Sometime back there was a new house built with the ceiling 30cm lower than what was meant to be, the roof had to be removed and redone to add the 30cm

Charlotte are you able to add more photos so we can get a better look at what it looks like overall, to try and understand why he chose to do this. And why is that wall lower

Drived past the site earlier

It looks good. This would be the best outcome with zero lot boundary, and having to work with tiles not colorbond roofing.
They have definitely packed those homes in close.

I still cannot for the life of me , work out what they are trying to achieve ? Surely if your house is say 20 metres deep , why effectively make the trusses to fit 19.4 metres , then ramp the last 300mm each end ? It uses slightly more wood , slightly more roofing ( because of the drops ) , quite a bit more time , some tricky joins , and 2 or 3 times the things to go wrong .

IMO it looks worse too , which means the only possiblity I could think of ( looking better ) is also negated . Which leaves the 'hiding a stuff-up' the only real possibility I can think of .

Your neighbor is very close! The example I posted showing the boundary side gutter had the gutter on top of and flush with the boundary side wall yours projects out from the wall. It doesn't matter what the roofing material is this all about the guttering \Plumbing

Best you check it out with a Professional , council won't charge you

Also, is this something to be concern of? There’s an opening under the base of the house.

YES, heavy rain appears to have washed soil away and has penetrated under the concrete slab. Bring this to the attention of your builder as soon as possible.

With issues unveiling one after another, I really have to this time round.

Do you guys have any recommendations for reliable private inspector in NSW?

I think the roof and garage are fine, but you need to address the slab

If you do engage an inspector, I would be interested to hear the outcome. The two issues for you re the foundation concrete slab showing in the garage, and the installation of gutters in corners of the home. The third issue is from nature and you are just lucky this heavy rain happened before hand over and the builder may fix this for you.

If you look at these photos of your home and a comparison photo. Okay, the photos of your home may not be as neat a job, but the work completed is the same. Only difference with gutters, as mentioned by siriusky is the placement of the gutters on the boundary wall. But if a down pipe is required for this side of the home, then that ,is maybe why they have completed the job with the gutters along the wall not on top. An inspector will check everything and give you piece of mind. But the job may of been done correctly in the first place?

Inspection will be after Easter, will post you the update for sure.

Do you have any drawings/plans of the actual build, which might show this gutter