Sorry to continue....the plan by Louise on the 20/01/2017.... But the laundry ( with internal access or through cloak room) and ensuite to the rear of the garage the master behind...... Then a Wir separating the master form the living or a bathroom...... The a fireplace if required against the western wall central in the house.... The entrance and small cloak room for the winter woollies against the garage and the other three beds at the front RHS with bath near.... The lounge/ kitchen/ dining in a similar layout but with minimal a walls blocking the view from the entry to the living/kitchen .... I like at lease a small wall dividing the living and lounge for the teenagers also.... If I get an chance I will sketch something up. Good luck this the paperwork... Plans are the fun part.

Hi there Dave, sorry for not responding sooner, I have been a bit unwell. I would like to add the following ideas. 1) You mention going to a kitchen company and showing your current kitchen plan, the better thing for you to have done would to have taken your floor plan with measurements and asked them what they would suggest, as long as they didn't want to charge you. This way you would get more ideas, not just them politely agreeing hoping to get your business, and why not, 2) I would contact several builders to come on site and give you their ideas of what needs to be done and advise if you would need to involve council and the building costs involved in doing this. The builders will have their own trades electrical and plumbing that work as a team 3) You mention flat packs, they are a great option and can save you a lot of money, Bunnings will do a kitchen plan and cost in store at no charge, Ikea will do the same but not sure about any charges. You can also go online to both and work out a plan, but I would strongly suggest you speak face to face them as they know their product. Bunnings run in store programs where they show you how to assemble their cabinets, both stores have video tutorials, believe me it's worth watching as flat pack anything can be a nightmare. If you can assemble your own cabinets in your own time it will save you a.lot of money, starting sooner than later would be a very good idea I didn't get up to mentioning in planning the layout of your kitchen that the larger the cabinets you use will also save money, ie 2 x 900 as against 3 x 600, the cost per unit plus instead of paying for 3 cabinets to be installed it's 2. It's also makes for a simpler looking design. Most of our Bunnings kitchen is made up of 900 units 2 x Drawers & 900 units 3 x drawer. The exception is 800 cabinet for the sink. 5) Cook top, I would strongly suggest you work a 900 into your kitchen (this would mean having to use a smaller cabinet either side or just between the cook top and the wall). 900 cook tops give superior space to use especially when using large pots/woks and fry pans, they also help to protect laminated bench tops from accidental put down and burns, 6) Range hood, the best look for your kitchen wouldn't be a large stainless wall mounted unit and that's good news as the intergrated ones in over head cabinets would not only look better, give more storage and would cost less. 7) The Island, you have been trying to decide what size, well if you don't have plumbing installed, the island can be free standing with or with out plinths and can be moved if you decide you need more space. You do need to have a couple of power points but make sure they have a longer connection. Our Island is 2.7 x 1200 and has both a cook top and oven with power points and can be moved approx 500m in each direction due to having longer connections. 8) Bench tops, you mention laminate due to cost, we had that problem what with the size of the island. So we went with Plywood (not Marine) We went to Mr Plywood who when the next delivery came in chose a piece with a beautiful grain, had it cut to size and delivered. The plywood sheet came in a 3 meter length but not all do, we had enough to do the sink bench and a top for a tressel table & legs my better half made. cost with delivery 2hrs approx $400. We did a shadow line bench top which had a smaller size white set back under lay. You need to use a good two pack pot sealant on the Plywood. Finally I don't know where I got the picture of the retro coloured kitchen cabinets, but look online at both Bunnings and Ikea cheers

Thanks for all the detailed comments! A few clarifications from me.. We have done the BASIX and so, really, the window size, shape, location is determined. That wasn't clear of me, sorry, I guess I meant we can change the dimensions (within reason) to suit if a "standard size" is cheaper than the size that we have currently, which was rather arbitrary. But this way of thinking might be totally irrelevant! All the windows/doors penetrations are blocked out when they pour the concrete panels, so while we could infill or something if the penetration is too big, we are really trying to get it right now so there are no breaks in the concrete. I think we also did the BASIX with double glazing and Al frames originally (will look it up) but as we are off grid that kind of blew everything else out of the water. We have done all the shadow diagrams and spent a lot of time with placement and eaves. I think that part is OK. I am pretty set on double glazing and thermally broken frames (where aluminium). Thanks Paul for your comment of 10-15%. Our preliminary quote from out builder is certainly not that high (more like 5%) and I was having trouble seeing how we could get everything for that price. I am sure it is possible, and while we are very conscious not to over-capitalise, I don't think the most basic product is a good idea. oklouise, I share your concerns about bifolds! I don't really like them but my partner really wants them and I'm happy to give on that one. I have one quote from CedarWest which seems reasonable, but then it's the same again for an integrated screen!! Will consider other ways of doing that. So! More details: See attached the overall floor plan (floor plan attached twice, sorry!) and views. Great 270deg views (all but west as sort of dug into a hill to avoid the wind). There are 2 pods connected by an open walkway. Ignore the round window - point of contention and may change. The main pod has two large east-facing windows. A thought was gas-lift windows with the large bottom sill to serve as extra seating when open. In the E view, the verandah will not have that many posts so the view is not actually obstructed. Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I think I am just struggling with all the choice, and need to start pining down some constrains that I can work within! Thank you!!

My thoughts. Firstly, as has been said, you'll get better results seeking professional help, especially for such an unusual design. The external surfaces are an expensive part of a build. The larger the external surface area per sqm of footprint, the larger the cost per sqm. Seperate wings & courtyards increase the external surface area greatly. This plan has a very large external surface area, so will be costly per sqm, for what is already a very large dwelling. Separate wings also increases hallways & circulation space, which some people find wasteful, & increase the time to move from one part of the house to another. Instead of a U-shaped house, how about an L-shaped house? This would reduce the external surface area of the build & the amount of hallway space, reducing the cost per sqm & the size of the dwelling. With an L-shaped home most rooms could face the outdoor space in the NE side of the block, but some (possibly the minor bedrooms) would likely face the southern street. So, a couple of questions; Is this a newly developed or established area of Sydney? If it's an establish area with neighbours close by, could you post a screenshot of a Google Maps satellite image, to get an idea of outlooks & whether there will be privacy issues with neighbours? How quiet is the southern street? Are you happy to have rooms facing this street? How much busier is the western street? Is it possible to locate the garage facing the western street, or is it too busy for access? I'd much rather have the garage face a noisy street than the master bedroom (although the ensuite will help a bit). Also the western side of a dwelling is a great place to locate a garage, as it shields the house from the hot afternoon sun. The west is not a good place for bedrooms (although again, the ensuite will help). On that note, have a read of this, paying attention to the section on passive design & orientation. http://yourhome.gov.au/passive-design/orientation As for your current design, your bedroom wings are likely to shade your living areas for much of the day in winter. A skillion roof with north facing clerestory windows, as shown in a few of the pictures in this thread, would help get winter sunshine to your living areas. Although an L-shaped build would allow more northern light to the living areas than the current U-shaped plan. Best of luck with the build.