Many thanks gerogiegirl123, LouieT & oskuee. I really appreciate your thoughts. We have delayed a bit due to some indoor renovations but I have started painting out the brown rafters & uprights with Ricochet (fairly light grey with hint of earthy green) and the brown sliding doors with vanilla quake (pale grey) & that has lightened things up without heading too far away from the earthy 1970's vibe. Thanks for the photo ideas. I am keen for a united floor that looks great & is durable but that isn't just one boring expanse of the same material. Perhaps some lighting and a raised planter box in one section that could double as seating would help? Also interesting was the comment on the almost Japanese feel. I stumbled across a Japanese plant in a nursery (cephalotaxus harringtonia fastigiata) that may work as a replacement for the tree ferns which are driving me mad with the spores that settle on everything. We have plenty of indoor projects to entertain us and the ideas for the courtyard are slowly evolving. Thanks again.

Since this thread started I've moved house and renovated two more bathrooms and this "step" issue is definitely becoming a headache. You know, we are such slavish followers of trends, I just have to wonder at times how much we are becoming victims of them too. When I built my first house over 50 years ago, most homes were built on piers with timber flooring and concrete was only used in bathrooms and laundries, but the levels were adjusted so when tiles were laid in wet areas the transition was minimal. Floor tiles were also thinner than today's tiles, in most cases they were smaller tiles too and not these great slabs we use today that obviously need to be thicker for strength. Now we are building more slab on ground homes, no provision is being made for the thickness of floor tiles to ensure a more seamless transition between areas. My front entrance is tiled and has a 2cm "step" down to the lounge and family room areas and even that 2cm I find people constantly tripping over. I plan on removing these tiles and replacing the whole entry/kitchen/family area with vinyl planking. Carpet in the lounge room helps offset that step a little but I was told recently by people who have addressed this issue this way that putting an extra layer of underfelt within the doorway area works very well to help offset this problem. When I renovated the ensuite I now have this step issue but the tiles had been glued down with an unknown product of super strength that gave my bathroom guy a lot of grief trying to jackhammer up - took him 2 days to remove them and screed the floor to his standard - and he decided he could not do the main bathroom in a realistic time frame to meet the price he quoted me, he felt he could not even guarantee the standard of work he wanted to achieve so his suggestion was to tile over the existing tiles and when he got to the doorway he would add an extra part tile sloping to down to the floor level similar to what pucciplan described with his timber. He assured me he had done it with many other renovations, it was barely noticeable and would solve the issue much easier and cheaper for me and far less time consuming. In the meantime as I have carpet in the hallway we heard of the idea of using an extra layer of underlay and I've chosen this option. My laundry is right opposite the bathroom and those tiles will be replaced too. On close inspection of the original construction, we discovered no waste drain was put into the laundry, the tiles were drained towards the external door, which is apparantly acceptable .............EXCEPT, they then put a dam across the floor inside the doorway to stop rainwater coming in under the external door!!!! Now the laundry tiles will be laid over the top of the existing ones as well to allow for any possible accident needing drainage. Fortunately I've had no weather issues but we will put a rubber flap at the base of the door, just in case, and I will again do the extra layer of underlay under the carpet and hopefully will achieve a satisfactory result. At least the two doorways will match. Quite frankly though, I'm finding so many design issues these days, I really think the whole home building industry needs a thorough overhaul. I think as I age too, so many more issues are coming to light BUT they are obviously issues that could affect anyone of any age. I think we need to forget "trends" that don't consider the big picture of things and come back down to basic commonsense. HU - I'm really at a loss as to how your builder managed to get a 6.5cm step to the bathroom, that is absolutely ridiculous. The only thing I can think of is there may have been a slope issue for drainage, but surely it could still not have been that much, anything that much out should have been picked up when the building was inspected during construction. "Normal" is a good excuse for laziness or shoddy workmanship. I think from reading your posts, you are in an apartment?? You would then have slab floors?? Therefore I can't see the need for the step to be above 2cm. Definitely take this further - Fair Trading should be able to help you, the standard heights for steps varies according to location and use - it is a bit of a minefield to work out. Good luck. Amanda - how did all your renos go in the end? Sounds like you are still sane. :)

Last piece of advice simonsays - never "assume" anything - more often than not people sorting through this stuff on their own misjudge, either in under or over estimating what's involved, incorrectly thinking that it will be either easier or harder than it actually will be to achieve whatever it is......you need to define your various project requirements/details etc as a starting point, and have clarity on what aspects are more or less important for you. This also must include your budget BEFORE you put pen to paper working through the design solution...so if you want a 2-way fireplace, consider it now, and factor it in within the process of working through the costs (which should be occurring simultaneously.........also, remember that "design" is a process, working towards an outcome, which as always is about resolving project requirements to budget within a particular context/conditions.......the project outcome, whatever that is, will be very much determined by the design process and the extent it is invested in and executed....hope this all helps and best of luck with it all :) PD

Hi Laura, What you need here is someone who can robustly manage the design/layout decisions with experience and knowledge across the spectrum of construction costs. This where decisions one way or the other "make or break" a project.....the thing is small scale projects are not necessarily cheap to do and as Monika above has suggested design professionals will be able to best assist with maximising your outcomes. 80-100K for kitchen, laundry and peripherals is super tight, will be chewed up very quickly, so the question on these ones is how best to distribute and balance the budget with a solution. What we always look at is what is going to add value from both an everyday living factor and also from an actual property value perspective. This is great opportunity but you best invest in a designer as a start point, rather than go straight to say a builder or kitchen specialist, because the solution best take into consideration the whole house set-up and so any changes that will cost money are based on maximising the results and improvements - eg you could spend $XX putting an upspec'd kitchen back into the same place vs looking more broadly, thinking about how the spaces could connect better with the external and relocate/reconfigure the kitchen/living setup with a more efficient set-up/ better flowing/positioned configuration that not only improves the kitchen, but the related and interconnected outdoor area and the living space.......lots of details and stuff to work through and think about... Best of luck Cheers PD:)